Sunday, January 17, 2010

Andrés Carne de Res

Having completed our Spanish lessons and with Abe's day of departure fast approaching, we thought it might be enjoyable to check out one of Bogota's fanciest restaurants, Andrés Carne de Res.  As many other upscale establishments, this restaurant is located in a district called the Zona Rosa.  In general, the further north you travel in Bogota, the nicer the neighborhoods get.  Abe and I are staying in the central, in a historical district called the Candelaria, dotted with Spanish-style homes and government buildings.

As with just about everything we have tried to find in Bogota, finding Andrés' restaurant was no easy matter.  His establishment was particularly well hidden, found by entering an upscale shopping mall, exiting it through the back onto a small exposed courtyard, entering a second building and talking to a woman who tells you take a an elevator to the fourth floor and ask for "Paula."

The restaurant is an extraordinary place, spanning at least three floors with balconies, gangways, and large tables that could easily seat twenty.  From the middle of our table sprouted a large iron candle holder, with a large candle burning away in it.  After a minute or two our first waiter came over and introduced himself, handing us large bound menus that were essentially tabloid newspapers.  A minute later our second waiter came by, taking our drink order and suggesting the house special cocktails.  These cocktails were outrageously expensive and outrageously strong.  The effects helped us enjoy a troupe of masked performers who stopped by mid-meal to give us bandannas and serenade us with cumbia played on the trombone.

We ate heartily at the restaurant, stopped one more time by the casino where Abe played a few more hands of poker while I wandered about taking in the scene, primarily college-aged kids spilling out of any number of small clubs lining the streets in that area.  I stopped in an Irish bar and had an overpriced draft can of Guinness, met up with Abe, then took a taxi home.

Unfortunately, while we arrived home safely, my previous observation of a lack of accidents found a tragic counterexample, as we drove by what appeared to have been a fatal accident involving a cab and a pedestrian.  If, I should say when, you visit me in Bogota, be very careful crossing the streets.  Do not trust signs, signals, or lights.  In fact, you will be safest if you imagine that some evil villain is actively trying to run you down.  If you approach street crossing with this attitude, you should be OK.

Hopefully within a few weeks I should have an apartment and be able to follow through on this invitation.  I looked at one this weekend, but it was on a rather busy street, and I think the constant passing of microbuses could grate.  Fortunately there are some lovely apartments within my price range, and I hope to see some of them shortly.

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